Showing posts with label Peru - Cusco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru - Cusco. Show all posts

24 January 2019

Cusco, Peru



 
While touring South America on a motorbike, Ernesto "Che" Guevara (Gael García Bernal) and Alberto Granada (Rodrigo de la Serna) visited Peru in April and May 1952. In the film THE MOTORCYCLE DIARIES (original title Diarios de Motocicleta), based on the diaries that Guevara kept, they visit Cusco, Machu Picchu and Lima (see Lima, Peru).

The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:00:33
The moment when the two arrive in Cusco (spelled Cuzco in the film, also showing the date of arrival and the height), was filmed in Ollantaytambo. This town is located in the Sacred Valley, about 45 miles from Cusco. Many tourists start their trip to Machu Picchu here. The narrow streets of the old city center must have appealed to the producers of the film. Ernesto Guevara and Alberto Granada also went to Ollantaytambo and visited the ruins of the Inca terraces.
 
Although Cusco has grown considerably since 1952, the historic city center has not changed much and a few scenes were filmed here.

Ernesto and Alberto meet Félix (Gustavo Morales), a boy who guides them through the city, including eating coca leaves. These scenes are improvised, Gustavo Morales offered the film crew to show the city after which they filmed his tour. The street where the first meeting takes place is Calle Inca Roca. As its name indicates, the street was founded by the Incas. The walls were built on the foundations of what probably once was an Inca palace. The stones fit seamlessly without the use of cement.

The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:00:50
Calle Inca Roca, Cusco, 1 July 2018
The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:00:54
Calle Inca Roca, Cusco, 1 July 2018
The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:00:57
Calle Inca Roca, Cusco, 1 July 2018

Félix takes Ernesto and Alberto to Plaza de Armas, the central square of the city. They pass the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús ('Church of the Society of Jesus'), built on an Inca ruin between 1576 and 1668. The cathedral, located on the same square, dates from the same period. Both churches are examples of Spanish baroque architecture.

The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:01:15
Cathedral, Cusco, 1 July 2018
The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:01:22
Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, Cusco, 1 July 2018

When Ernesto and Alberto visited Plaza the Armas in April 1952, they made this photo of the church. The tower on the right was still in scaffolding after it had been damaged by a severe earthquake on 21 May 1950.

Cathedral, Cusco, April 1952
Photo made by Ernesto Guevara or Alberto Granada
Cathedral, Cusco, 1 July 2018

The movie ends with a series of portraits in black and white of people of all countries that were visited. Gustavo Morales poses at Hatunrumiyoc ('Street of the big stone') in front of the twelve-angled stone, a remarkable example of the precision of Incan architecture. The stone cannot be missed, there are always tourists and souvenir vendors nearby.

 The Motorcycle Diaries, 1:55:34
Hatunrumiyoc, Cusco, 1 July 2018

Screenshots © Focus Features/FilmFour
 

14 September 2018

Cusco, Peru



  
The film SECRET OF THE INCAS would have been largely forgotten if it had not been the inspiration for Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981). Unlike the first adventure of Indiana Jones, which was partially set in Peru but filmed in Hawaii, this film was shot on location in Cusco and Machu Picchu.

Secret of the Incas, 0:26:38
In the early 1950s, adventure films set in exotic locations were popular in America. Screenplay writer Sydney Boehm told the San Francisco Chronicle that he got the idea for a treasure hunt in Peru after he had met the Peruvian singer Yma Sumac at a party. She was offered a supporting role in the film and sings three songs. Prior to the studio filming in Hollywood, a film crew of 16 people, including lead actor Charlton Heston, producer Mel Epstein, cameraman Irmin Roberts and director Jerry Hopper, went to Cusco in October 1953 to shoot on location.

The city, also spelled Cuzco, has an elevation of 11,200 feet (3,400 meters) and before the invasion of the Spanish conquistadors was the capitol of the Incas. More than 60 years have passed since the movie was filmed here but the historic city centre has hardly changed.

Plaza de Armas, Cusco, 1 July 2018

The film starts with the arrival and departure of tourists. The airport, Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport, is situated in the middle of the city and was named after the first pilot to fly across the Andes in 1925. The airport has changed beyond recognition, only the obelisk that stood in front of the entrance in 1953 is still here today. We were here very early in the morning when it was still dark.

Secret of the Incas, 0:03:53
Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport, Cusco, 2 July 2018

American Harry Steele (Charlton Heston) is an adventurer and works as a tourist guide in Cusco. He possesses a carved stone that contains a clue where an Inca treasure is hidden. Harry crosses the Plaza El Regocijo and the street Del Medio to enter a hotel. The hotel is nowadays a restaurant where guests are constantly bothered by street vendors, at least when we were there.

Secret of the Incas, 0:10:04
Plaza El Regocijo-Del Medio, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:10:12
Plaza El Regocijo-Del Medio, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:10:15
Restaurant Los Portales II, Cusco, 1 July 2018

Not much later Elena Antonescu (Nicole Maurey) arrives in the city, after a truck gave her a ride. She has fled from Romania and hopes to travel to America but is being chased by the Romanian consul. She gets off at Portal Espinar with the Iglesia de La Merced (‘Church of Mercy’) in the background. As soon as she sees two police officers, she turns around. Nicole Maurey was never in Cusco, the scene where she gets out of the car was filmed in front of a screen. The woman coming out of the street and walking towards Calle Maruri is a stand-in. Although the walls have been reconstructed, the dome of the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (‘Church of the Companionship of Jesus’) can still be seen in the background.

Secret of the Incas, 0:14:05
Calle Santa Clara, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:14:18
Meson De La Estrella , Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:14:42
Portal Espinar, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:14:44
Portal Espinar, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:14:50
Corner Loreto-Calle Maruri, Cusco, 1 July 2018

In the meantime, Harry Steele is giving a guided tour and walks over the Plaza de Armas where the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús is located. At the time of the shooting, the building was still partly under construction after a heavy earthquake on 21 May 1950 had damaged many buildings.

Secret of the Incas, 0:15:13
Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, Cusco, 1 July 2018

In front of the Cusco Cathedral on the same square Harry Steele tells about a famous church bell, the Maria Angola, but is pointing towards the wrong tower.

Secret of the Incas, 0:15:27
Cathedral, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:15:39
Cathedral, Cusco, 1 July 2018

Behind the tourists a small part of the fountain in the middle of the Plaza de Armas can be seen. The fountain was constructed at the end of the nineteenth century. The design comes from the catalogue of an American smithy and is not unique, the exact same fountain can be found in three cities in the United States. The image of the American Indian on top was replaced in 2011 by a gold-coloured statue of Pachacuti, emperor of the Incas. During the annual Inti Raymi ("Festival of the Sun"), which coincided with our visit, the fountain is covered with a cardboard construction to make it appear as if Pachacuti is standing on a stone platform.

Secret of the Incas, 0:15:35
Statue of Pachacuti, Cusco, 1 July 2018

The tour continues by walking on the Calle Palacio to visit the archaeological museum on Plazoleta Nazarenas. Nowadays this building is the 5-star Hotel Monasterio. The entrance, including the wooden doors decorated with lion heads, has remained the same. Note that the tourists who were standing in front of the fountain are not included, that scene was also filmed in front of a screen.

Secret of the Incas, 0:15:52
Corner Calle Palacio-Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:15:56
Door Hotel Monasterio, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Secret of the Incas, 0:15:59
Hotel Monasterio, Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cusco, 1 July 2018

Harry and Elena decide to leave the city together by stealing the plane of the Romanian consul. Elena is unaware that Harry wants to search for the Inca treasure in Machu Picchu. The scene in which they get in the car was also filmed on the street Del Medio. It is pretty obvious that they are not being played by the real actors.

Secret of the Incas, 0:36:13
Del Medio, Cusco, 1 July 2018
Screenshots © Paramount Pictures